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I stood on top of a tall mountain, alone. Below me, the Great Wall of China stretched out like a huge, stone snake. It was an amazing sight. Yet all I could think of was how hungry and thirsty I was. Ill return to that moment in a bit. First, let me tell you about the Wall.

The Great Wall is 4,000 kilometers (2,500 miles) long. Thats like going from Washington, D.C., to Kansas!

The Wall was built to keep out enemies. Guards watched for danger from its towers. They would send smoke signals if they spotted trouble.

Now Ill tell you what brought me to the Wall. I started out in a group of five people. We wanted to be the first non-Chinese to walk the entire Wall.

The five of us were all from different places. We hoped to show that people from different countries could do great things together.

Our journey began at a fortress at the west end of the Wall. We heard a story there. Officials made the builder guess how many bricks were needed. He would die if he was wrong. After the fort was built, the bricks were counted. He had guessed correctly!

We hiked through muddy swamps and icy rivers. About a month into the trek, however, the group split up. Some were hurt. Others were sick. I had to finish the trek myself. That is how I ended up on top of the mountainthirsty, tired, and alone.

When I set out, I had wanted a challenge. The journey would test my mind and strength. Yet that day, the journey did not seem like the best idea. I had been hiking since 4 a.m. that morning. I had brought only what I could carry, so I had to find food and water along the way.

The area was not on maps, and I did not know what the day would bring. As I was wondering what to do, I saw a village in the distance.

When I entered the village, everyone stopped and stared. They had never seen an outsider up close before. The children stood with eyes wide open.

I pulled out my empty water bottle. Thankfully, a young boy understood. He rushed inside a hut and returned with water. I took a sip. It tasted great.

The boys family invited me into their house for some food. A curious crowd followed me. The family was poor but generous. They offered me boiled tea leaves in an old jar. They fed me apples, bread, and hot noodles. I even ate fried crickets and pig ears!

That was my first meal in two days, so I was not going to be picky. I swallowed the food fast and felt my strength return. Time to hike again!

After hiking for a few more hours, I reached the mighty Yellow River. It is the second longest river in China. But I had no boat. How would I cross it?

I spotted a shepherd in a little black hat. He had one blue eye and one brown eye. He appeared to be heading home, but he agreed to help.

He had a raft made from bodies of dead sheep. The bodies were filled with air and tied together, so they floated. I had never seen anything like it before!

The shepherd rowed me across the muddy, rushing water. The river was fast and strong, but we made it safely to the other side.

After months of walking, I reached the east end of the Wall. I shouted for joy. I had done it! I had hiked the Great Wall. The journey had pushed the limits of my body and mind. After that, I felt as if I could do anything.

The Wall was built to keep people out of China. Yet this summer, people from around the world are going to China for the Olympic Games.

They will see the beautiful scenery that I saw. They will feel the warmth of the Chinese people that I felt. I wonder if China will change them as it changed me.

Article by Nathan Hoturoa Gray. Top-of-page photograph ) Jose Fuste Raga/Corbis. "Wall of Wonder" appears on page 10 of the May 2008 issue.